Touring Jerusalem - Place of history

The busin ess week in Israel over, my company thoughtfully provided me with a tour guide to take me around the area over the weekend. The first day would be a tour of the Old City. The second day would be a desert tour that would include Masada and a dip in the Dead Sea.

Day 1 - The Old City - I met my tour guide, Abi, in the hotel lobby. I was late since I was up partying the night before in the bars of Jerusalem, which I won't go into here. Like they say: what happens in Jerusalem STAYS in Jerusalem.

Abi has a BA in history and comparative religion and is a walking encyclopedia of the region. He knows more about Christianity than I do, and he's Jewish. After introductions I followed him outside to what I thought would be a car, but he turned his head over his shoulder and told me in his heavily accented English, "Is short distance. We walk!"

For such a heavily built man he kept a brisk pace and I had to practically jog to keep up. As I caught up to him he asked me, "What religion are you? Tour is little different for each religion."

"Uh, Catholic, but I was raised..."

"Okay. I make sure we go to Church of Ascension."

"What if I were Jewish?"

"Then we skip church."

"I see. What religion are you, Abi?"

He glanced at the smart-ass American without answering. Instead he waved a thick, calloused hand at the old walls that were coming into view. "The foundation of these city walls are over three thousand years old." And that started seven hours of walking, talking, and answering questions as we wandered through the old city. He was incredibly patient in explaining the incredibly complex history of the place and the nervous peace that exists in a city that is holy to three of the world's major religions.

Two Holy Places: Muslim Dome of the Rock on top, Jewish Wailing Wall below

For me, I found the Christian holy places of the city disappointing. Part of the problem is the natural comparison to the other major place of Catholic pilgrimage - the Vatican - which is totally awe-inspiring. The second was the commercial feel of the place. The Church of the Ascension was filled with Japanese tourists snapping photos and large non-religious tour groups chatting away - not exactly things to make one feel especially reverent, and crap that isn't put up with at the Jewish or Muslim holy sites. The Christian places here are also overshadowed by the Jewish and Muslim holy areas and just plain living (the Seventh Station of the Cross is right in front of a falafel joint). So I personally found the place more interesting as an archeological and historical landmark than a place that holds importance in my own religion. There was a moment the next day, however, that changed that a bit.

Day 2 - The Desert - Before we got out of Jerusalem we stopped at the Hill of Olives, where, according to Abi, all three religions believe will be the place God will come to judge Mankind. The only question is who will be with Him: Christ, the unnamed Messiah, or Muhammad. I know where I am placing my bet.